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ENGINE/FUEL SYSTEMS

 

Assembling an Outboard Fuel System

Every outboard seems to have different fuel line connectors, and this is one area where we wish outboard manufacturers would standardize. As the array of pre-assembled fuel lines and fuel line connectors we stock will attest, this hasn't happened yet.

There are three choices in assembling a fuel system for your outboard engine:

  1. Purchase an Ultra Flow Fuel System matched to your engine. Everything you need-tank, fuel line, and quick connector for your engine-is included. With these systems, the hose is permanently attached to the tank.
  2. Purchase a portable tank, then add a Tempo Ultra Flow Fuel Line Assembly designed for your engine. You'll need to attach the appropriate 1/4" NPT quick connector to the tank in order to connect the tank end of the hose.
  3. Purchase a portable tank, a universal fuel line with primer bulb, or a length of outboard fuel hose and primer bulb individually. Then add quick connectors matched to your engine. For a removable hose, use three connectors (one for the tank and two for the hose, matched to your engine). For a hose that's permanently attached to the tank, use a 1/4" NPT pipe-to-hose barb at the tank end, and the appropriate quick connector at the engine end.

Clamp all connections with stainless hose clamps (Model 355222), and use Teflon tape to seal any threaded connections against leaks. With a tie-down strap to secure the tank and a tray or rubber mat to protect the floor of the boat, your system is complete.

 

Fuel System Installation Checklist

Typical Permanent Gasoline Tank

The ABYC specifies that permanent tanks must be grounded, vented to the outside, and accessible for inspection and testing. All components must meet certain standards for mechanical strength, burst pressure, and fire retardance.


Required Components: Optional Components:
1 1/2" deck fill fitting
1 1/2" fill hose (SAE Type A-2)
Two 1 3/4"-2 5/8" hose clamps
Thru-hull vent fitting
5/8" vent hose (USCG Type A-2)
Two 3/4"-1 1/2" hose clamps
3/8" feed hose (USCG Type A-1
1/4" NPT male to 3/8" male hose barb
Two 1/2"- 1 1/8" hose clamps
Tank hold-down straps
Teflon tape (to seal threaded connections)

 

Remote electric fuel gauge
Shut-off valve (anti-siphon protection)
Fuel return fitting & hose (diesel only)

 

 

 

 

 

Tips on Propeller Selection

What They Do
Propellers provide forward thrust for a boat under power. There are two main styles of propellers: two-to-four blade styles which fit inboard engines with propeller shafts (sail or power), and three-to six-blade styles which fit outboards or stern drives.

How They Differ
Propeller size
is described by two numbers: the diameter and the pitch. They are the most important measurements in selecting a propeller.

Diameter is two times the distance from the center of the hub to the tip of any blade. In general, smaller diameters correspond with smaller power engines or higher speeds.

Pitch is the theoretical forward movement of a propeller through one complete revolution. Since there is always a slight amount of "slip" between the prop and the water, the actual distance is slightly less.

Material - Propellers are made of either composite, aluminum, bronze, or stainless steel. Composite props make good, durable primary props and inexpensive spares. Aluminum props are the most common, suitable for the widest range of size, load, and rpm applications. Bronze or stainless props offer higher performance and better durability for speedboats, tournament ski boats, and other special applications. The following breakdown compares the materials:

Weight Flex Repair Cost
Composite Least Little Not Possible Least
Aluminum Medium Little Easy Medium
Stainless Greatest Least Difficult Greatest
Bronze Greatest Least Easy Greatest

Number of blades - With any propeller, it is important to have enough blade area to evenly distribute engine power across the surface of the blades so it is properly transferred into forward motion. Too little blade area causes high "blade loading," meaning the prop is incapable of absorbing all the power transferred to it by the engine. This leads to cavitation, vibration, and in extreme cases, pitting. Luckily, manufacturers save you the trouble of making lengthy calculations, and design their props to fall within a safe blade loading range.

With increased blade area you can decrease blade diameter, but often at the cost of efficiency at higher speeds. A three-blade prop is generally considered to be the best combination of blade area and low blade loading. However, when the number of blades on a prop is changed, the diameter and pitch require minimal adjustment for the prop to remain within the safe blade loading range. So, for all intents and purposes, three- and four-blade props can be used interchangeably on outboards and sterndrives without a perceptible change in performance. Wide-blade, super-cavitating, and two-blade folding props for inboard engines deserve special consideration, and fall outside the scope of this Advisor.

Choosing the Perfect Prop
Prop selection is one of the primary factors which determines boat performance. Because similar-sized boats are used for many different applications, there are a wide range of sizes and styles available. The basic rule is to select a prop which allows the engine to reach its optimal wide open throttle (WOT) rpm range, which is generally usually between 5000 and 5500 rpm, depending on engine type. (This information is generally in the Owner's Manual which comes with a new boat or engine.)


Mercury 9.9 Outboard

 

 

Ultra Flow Fuel System

 

Tank-Fuel 55 Gallon

 

Diesel Filter/Separator

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cupped Aluminum Propeller

 

 

 

 

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